Restaurants survive long-term for a variety of reasons. It could be because of constant innovation by a master chef. The equally successful opposite is an establishment that has carved out its niche by serving tried-and-true dishes that its customer base demands and expects. Scott's falls into the latter category.

Scott's has been around long enough to know how to listen to its customers — nearly 30 years in Palo Alto and approaching seven years at its present location. The 275-seat restaurant is a big operation, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner every day with two private rooms and a full bar.

The decor is simple, with earth-toned booths and linen-lined tables with wood chairs. The low-beamed ceiling is painted in creamy hues, while The Cardinal Room is festooned with Stanford University memorabilia. A long bar sits in its own area away from diners. It's the same cozy place as always, nestled in the rejuvenated Town & Country Village.

Scott's seemed re-energized as well since the last time I reviewed it, five years ago. While the menu was predictable, the service was decidedly better on recent visits, with the pacing from the kitchen excellent. The food was, by and large, very good. Maybe it's a sign in these wanting times; perhaps it's something that has evolved under the steady stewardship of general manager Kim Ryberg. Whatever the reasons, my recent dining experiences were all positive.

German Nava deserves credit, too. Starting as a dishwasher in 1989, he worked his way up and learned the profession. He has been the capable executive chef for the past six years, patterning his menu to the seasonal availability of ingredients.

Most of the fish is fresh at Scott's and the few exceptions are the same exceptions most everywhere: calamari and East Coast scallops, which are flash-frozen to preserve flavor and texture.

My favorite dish was the seared scallop salad ($17.95). I was skeptical of the ingredients of grilled pears, organic greens, tarragon vinaigrette and crispy onions, but they harmonized beautifully. The crunch of the fried onions added textural support for the pears and delicate scallops.

However, the fried calamari ($9.95) with lemon garlic sauce wasn't quite up to it. The squid was thin and rather limp, leaving a mealy taste in the mouth. It lacked crispness, which translated into not fresh-tasting and not very interesting.

New England clam chowder ($4.75 cup, $6.75 bowl) was old school all the way. White, creamy and thick with bits of clams, this rendition was too dense, overly thickened with starches. True enough, it's the same version Scott's has served for decades. It's comfort food: high in calories, low in brininess.

The soup du jour one evening was creamy lentil ($4.75 cup, $6.75 bowl). Flavored with mushrooms and bacon, the soup was savory, hearty and nourishing, well-seasoned and robust.

I was also impressed that all soups, salads and appetizers were available in half orders.

Blackened red snapper ($18.95) came with black beans, jasmine rice, citrusy salsa fresca and lime sour cream. The fish was moist, mild and supple to the fork, pairing nicely with the other ingredients. It was both Southern and south of the border.

Shrimp fettuccine ($18.95) included tomatoes concasse (peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped) and artichoke hearts, and was blanketed in dense, creamy basil tomato sauce. The shrimp were plump and juicy and the artichoke hearts added a touch of lush, grassy sharpness.

Seared, blackened ahi tuna ($26.95) came with ginger-carrot puree and mango-avocado relish sprinkled with a fruity soy. The ahi was seared just enough to preserve the lovely color and texture. The fish was firm but yielding, fresh-tasting and of delicate, superior quality.

I haven't seen petrale sole dore ($23.95) on a menu in ages. Here, it falls under the heading of Scott's Seafood Classics. It is just fresh fish in flour and egg, sauteed and drizzled with lemon butter sauce. It was simple and simply delicious.

I stopped by for lunch one day to try the fish & chips ($11.95). The beer-battered Pacific snapper was fried just through, leaving the fish moist and flaky on the inside without a pool of grease on the bottom of the plate. The generous portion was accompanied with crispy fries and lively coleslaw.

Also noteworthy on the lunch menu was porcini ravioli with sauteed prawns ($19.95). Dressed in a light tomato-porcini butter sauce, the dish was earthy, and filling, with a high flavor profile.

Desserts were pleasant if unexceptional. The fruit cobbler ($7.50) was warm and not cloyingly sweet. At lunch one day, the cinnamon apple crepes ($6.50) were not what I expected. Instead of the classic thin French crepes, this version was more pancake, thick and dense, making the dessert too heavy to conclude a midday repast.

Service was excellent. The staff didn't rush our meals, nor was there too much lag time between courses. Bus boys didn't attempt to snatch away plates as soon as one diner laid his fork down. The table was cleared and clean utensils appeared with each course.

Scott's wine list is an in-house collaborative effort and the menu offers something that should satisfy most every palate. Prices are reasonable and there are nearly two dozen wines offered by the glass. The wine label emphasis is focused on Northern California. Corkage fee is $15. A broad range of beers and specialty cocktails are also available.

Times are tough for the restaurant business. Scott's is a survivor, though, and will be around for years to come. Long ago, the Scott's staff learned to listen to customers and give them what they wanted. Trendy may come and go, but first-rate, fairly priced seafood restaurants will always be in vogue.