When the platter of sweet potato fritters ($9) arrived at Palo Alto's Tamarine, my eyes widened. Not only were they approaching the size of Smart Car tires, there were four of them.

Golden, crisp, hot from the fryer but not at all greasy, the fritters were stuffed with rock shrimp and green onions. The pile of butter lettuce was meant as a wrap, then to be dipped into the mint and chili lime fish sauce. Instant bliss.

We ordered the taro root rolls ($8) as well. The half-dozen hot roll-ups were crisp as C notes just delivered from the Federal Reserve. Besides taro root (a starchy tuber inwardly similar in texture to a potato but outwardly more like a coconut), the rolls were filled with wood-ear mushrooms and carrots. The chili-plum dipping sauce added an ingenious layer of flavor that enveloped the ingredients.

There was more food than the two of us could possibly eat, and that was just the first course.

Tamarine is the creation of owner/chef Tammy Huynh and owner/manager Anne Le, aunt and niece, whose family hails from Vietnam and has deep roots in the South Bay restaurant business. Opened in 2002, Tamarine has remained one of the top restaurants in the area.

Le attributes the success to her clientele. "Our customers are cultured and well-traveled. They appreciate new and different foods." Of course, having a talented, passionate chef helps too, as do the chic ambiance, the attentive waitstaff and an ever-evolving menu.

The interior geography is understated in soft greens and wood tones, with energetic wall art showcasing Vietnamese artists. Windows oversee University Avenue and the muted music is jazzy. Starched white table linens cap an elegance that is apparent upon entering the restaurant. The well-orchestrated staff incessantly shuttles plates brimming with vibrant, aromatic selections.

Summoning all our will power, we didn't finish all the taro rolls and fritters. Good thing. The caramelized onion prawns ($22) were out of this world. Eight large prawns were wok-tossed with fish sauce, onions, garlic, butter and lardons. The prawns were enmeshed with the sweet onions and the plate was a complex tapestry of delight.

We also ordered the kumquat-glazed chicken ($20), which were equally dazzling. The plump, juicy half-chicken had been oven roasted then tossed with a glaze of kumquats, lemon grass, garlic and chilies. Roasted cauliflower was a genius touch to the dish that harmonized with the chicken and the citrusy glaze.

Gasping for air, we decided to share a dessert. The goat milk panna cotta ($8) was light as air, faintly tart, and held in place with a glistening strawberry rhubarb compote. The fat globules in goat's milk are smaller than cow's milk, which allows for a nearly weightless custard.

Additional meals didn't disappoint. The salt and pepper calamari ($12) were wok-tossed rather than deep fried. This allowed for crisp but not crunchy squid. Garlic and spring onions were added to the wok and the cilantro emulsion dipping sauce was flavorful without masking the brininess.

Papaya salad ($11) was refreshing as ever, with shreds of green papaya that were mixed with basil and layered with dried shredded beef. It was a chewy, flavor-packed salad.

Clay pot cod ($20) featured Alaskan black cod with caramelized onions, garlic, black pepper, molasses and lardons. The fish was firm and fresh tasting, while the molasses and lardons added a sweet and salty element. The garlic, onions and pepper added depth.

The honey and miso pan-roasted duck ($25) was succulent, with the duck melt-in-the-mouth tender. The miso paste was earthy and savory while the honey provided a touch of sweetness that offset the richness of the duck. The duck was served atop a shovelful of nutty-tasting "forbidden rice" bound with a citrus-butter sauce.

My one criticism of Tamarine is the price of wines. Ouch. No question that it is a first-class wine list. Magnificent Burgundies from hallowed producers are represented, with beefy Barolos and Brunellos and lush Sauvignon Blancs from three continents. The restaurant is happy to answer questions and make recommendations, and Le said she is trying to bring in some less-costly wines. (There's a $20 corkage fee, should you want to bring your own.)